Richard's Travels

Tales from the Southern hemisphere

Monday, January 30, 2006

East As Tour

I finished my last night in Taupo with a BBQ in the hostel, followed by some drinks and an early night in preparation for getting up the next morning.

On Friday I started a small extra tour, the East As tour, which takes in parts of the East Cape of the north island of NZ - focussing mainly on seeing some of the more traditional aspects of the country. Our driver, Jerry, picked us up in a much smaller bus than the previous ones. Our first port of call was Napier, a town which had to be rebuilt after a big earthquake in 1931. At the time, Art Deco was in fashion, and consequently many of the buildings are built in this style. After some lunch and a few photos, we made our way onwards. Originally, the plan was to visit a few beaches along the way. However, the bad weather we've been having for a while decided to accompany us, so instead we visited some hot pools for a dip and a beer to break up the journey. Eventually we reached Gisborne, the biggest city in that area, where we stayed at the Chalet Surf, right on the beach. We finished the day with a BBQ and watching Whale Rider - a kiwi film shot locally.

Saturday was a lot more relaxed, with not so many miles to do. Some people in the group had got up very early for a surfing lesson - I declined this option due to the not very nice weather - I'll have plenty more opportunities around NZ and Australia to do that! When we eventually left, we visited the Maori village where the film from last night was shot, before heading onto Rangitukia, where we stayed at the Eastenders Farmstay (nothing to do with the crap english soap!). Again, the bad weather had followed us in the form of a very low mist, reducing visibility quite dramatically, and making for a few eerie looking photos (to be added later). We went on a horse ride, which was meant to give us dramatic views of the landscape in the area. However, due to the mist we just got wet. Annoyingly, my horse only seemed to have two speeds, slow and slower. It was also quite adept at weaving side to side on the path, blocking the way for any of the faster riders who wanted to overtake! Back at the farm, we had a meal and played a few games of table tennis and cards. I was supposed to be going Possum shooting (what a nice introduction to an animal I've not yet seen!), but the people doing that never turned up. I suspect that the rain had caused this to be cancelled.

As Rangitukia is the most easterly point of New Zealand, one of the suggested activities was to get up really early and see the sunrise before anywhere else. However, the mist from the previous days made this unlikely. Instead, we opted for allowing one person who said she would get up anyway to wake us if there was any visibility at all. This was not the case, so there was no early start. When we eventually left the farm, we headed off on another fairly short journey, with some random stops along the way for food and seeing little points of interest. Our destination this day was Te Kaha, a Maori village, where we stayed at the Te Kaha homestay lodge. This was by far the best night of the trip so far - at this lodge you stay with a Maori family, where they welcome you into their extended family, providing some really good home cooking, and some entertainment. The garden of the house extended right down to the beach, being interrupted only by the hot tub they have just at the end of the garden.

The hot tub was the first port of call once settled in, spending some time relaxing with some beers while the sun went down. Eventually, dinner was called. The dinner was a buffet style affair with plenty of locally caught fish - definitely the best meal I've had since I got here. After dinner, a group of young locals gave us their welcome song - a tradition in the Maori culture when welcoming guests. They then performed a few more songs, before giving us their rendition of the Haka. They are part of a national competition for performing this ritual, and have won this previously. It was very impressive, although I think when we had to come up and join in we spoilt things quite a bit! After this, things turned into a bit of a sing song, ranging from one very talented girl singing solo with a guitar to the Maori singing some more of their songs. Somewhere inbetween, we had to sing our welcome song, which was just plucked from someone's iPod on the bus journey. After all these festivities, we went back to the hot tub to spend the rest of the night, and demolish the rest of the drinks. Also went for a swim in the sea in the pitch black, where we could see phosphourescent algae every time you move in the water! After a late night of drinking & talking, got to bed quite late.

Today, I had to leave Te Kaha. If it had been possible to stay for an extra night, I definitely would've done. However, the bus for this tour only goes three times a week, so I would've had to stay an extra 3 nights or none at all. Not having a huge amount of spare time on the trip, I opted for leaving. It was a fairly long journey, supposedly to Taupo where I would have another attempt at doing a Skydive. However, it is a Kiwi national holiday today, and the skydiving wasn't running. Consequently, I got off the bus early at Rotorua, which I would have to go through to get to my next destination anyway. I knew some of the people I'd met earlier would be here, so met up with them. Rotorua is full of active thermal pools, mud pools, geysers etc, with lots of Sulphur escaping from the ground. Consequently, the place stinks of rotten eggs. I guess I'll get used to it eventually, but it isn't altogether pleasant at the moment! Went for a walk around park looking at the thermal pools this afternoon. I'll probably spend the rest of the night in the bar at the hostel, which seems quite lively.



Tomorrow, I am heading up to Auckland. Not quite sure what I'll be doing there yet or how long I'll stay, so time to hit the lonely planet tomorrow I think!

Thursday, January 26, 2006

Around Taupo

As I'm stuck in Taupo for a couple of days waiting for my next bus, I've been looking for stuff to do around here. I'd joined up with Nicola, Simon & Nicky, a group of people who have been travelling together for a while, as they were on my bus looking to do Skydiving too. We went to the airfield to try and do another jump, and even got into our jump suits. Unfortunately, that was as close as we got as the clouds came in and they cancelled the flying for the day. The group ahead of us actually got up to 12,000ft before it was cancelled - they may have been a bit nervous but at least they got the free scenic flight! We headed back into town, where it started raining again. Spent the rest of the day by going bowling and watching a movie at the cinema (memoirs of a geisha - very good).

Today wasn't much more successful - we'd signed up to go skydiving again at 11:00, but it looked cloudy. However, the clouds started clearing, so I rang to check. They said that it would be OK, and we should come over. Again, got to the airfield, and waited for the wind to drop. Which it didn't. Cancelled again - three consecutive days spent trying to jump out of a plane - am I mad? Instead, we went for a walk upto Huka falls, some rapids in a river flowing out of Lake Taupo. We got distracted when the two girls decided to do a tandem bungy jump on the way - I'm slowly coming round to the idea of doing a bungy, but will probably do a bigger one if I do one! Eventually made the falls, took a few photos then waited for the bus back. Which didn't come. Fortunately some guy gave us a lift back into town.

Catching the bus again tomorrow, headed for Gisborne.

Tuesday, January 24, 2006

Travelling & Wellington

With a free day in Wellington, I spent most of it walking around exploring, and taking photos. In the morning I walked around Te Papa, the big museum in Wellington. Quite an interesting exhibition on forces of nature - earthquakes, volcanoes and such like, of which there are plenty in New Zealand! The South island is more prone to earthquakes, and the north island has plenty of active volcanoes. Hopefully they'll stay quiet for a couple of months at least!

Also had a walk around another museum about the history of Wellington, with particular regard to travel. Interesting presentation on some Maori legends about fire there. Did a little shopping as needed to pick up a pay as you go SIM for making phone calls - if anyone fancies ringing me they can try +64210445877, but I'll probably still be texting people from my other phone.

Final part of that day was spent taking a trip up the cable car to the botanical gardens overlooking the city, which was nice. Went to the bar in the evening to not do very well in a killer pool tournament, then retired to bed ready for an early start.

Next morning, we had to be up fairly early for a trip to Taupo (pronounced Toe-Paw). Quite a long journey in an uncomfortable bus, made worse by the weather clouding over. This meant that we were unable to see the three local volcanoes, one of which is Mt. Doom from Lord of the Rings (can't remember the proper name for it at the moment!). Hopefully on the way back down it will be clearer! Taupo sits on the edge of a huge lake (the biggest in the southern hemisphere) - 606 sq km! Looks very much like an ocean, and apparently even the plants that grow here are ones normally found on the coast too.

On the bus, activity sheets get passed around for you to choose at each destination. I hadn't really thought much about this one, but decided to opt for Sky Diving, as Taupo is the cheapest place in NZ to do it (NZ$150 for a 12,000ft dive), but unfortunately it was rained off. As I have to come back through here at least twice more, I'm sure I'll get the chance at some point! Instead, the rest of the day was spent sitting in the hostel avoiding the rain, before heading down to a local bar with a load of people from the Kiwi Experience bus to do the local pub quiz, which we somehow managed to win. Unfortunately the $50 bar tab prize didn't go far. Would've been nicer if we hadn't argued over the final face in the picture round and chose the wrong one, causing us to miss out on the $200 prize!

Today, I was supposed to be getting on another bus going East to Gisborne, but unfortuntely this was already full and I have to spend another couple of days here while waiting for the next one. As today is looking like better weather, I'm off now to see if I can strap myself to someone who will jump out of a plane! Bye for now!

Sunday, January 22, 2006

Whale watching in Kaikoura

After getting up nice and early, I joined the Kiwi Experience tour going north from Christchurch. Our driver, Smooch (wouldn't tell us why he was so called, but claimed he would show one of the girls!), was friendly enough, talking about stuff as we passed. Distances in New Zealand haven't seemed so bad yet, and we reach Kaikoura fairly quickly, with a short stop on the way.

Kaikoura (meaning eat crayfish) is a town originally built around fishing & whaling, but with a fairly large tourist industry now for whale watching, dolphin swimming and seal swimming. Our bus driver took us to a small seal colony when we first got there so we could take some pictures of seals basking in the sun on the rocks.

We then went to out hostel, Top Spot, showing me that the previous hostel was actually a bit crap! After settling in and a short trip into town for some food & money, we were taken to the Whale watching center. On being told at the start that the average number of whales seen on a trip is 1-2, I was immediately thinking that I had been a bit ripped off! However, it turned out to be a lot better than that, seeing 7 or 8, most of them sitting in twos. Some of them gave us the classic fin photos, with others just disappearing below the surface. There were also a number of albatrosses flying around. I was a bit disappointed not to see any dolphins on the way, but I guess I'll do that another time.



After getting back from the Whale watching, we had a BBQ back at the hostel, sitting around chatting to the others in my group, before heading down to a bar to play some pool. It would seem from looking at the photos of one of the girls that the dolphin swimming would've been a better time than the whale watching, so I'll have to make sure I do that somewhere else.

The next day, we got to have a lie in (certain people were more in need of this than others!), before heading off to Picton to get the ferry across to Wellington. The views from the ferry were spectacular, but as we got towards Wellington, reasons for its nickname Windy Wellington became very obvious! Upon getting to Wellington, it quickly became obvious that I had never seen a city more full of kevved up cars - silly big exhausts, alloys, excess gauges etc than ever before! Anyway, I'm going to walk around Wellington today, before heading up to Taupo tomorrow.

Saturday, January 21, 2006

Around Chistchurch

I had planned on starting my Kiwi Experience tour today, but was unable to contact the office after getting back from the rafting yesterday, so I had an extra day around Christchurch. First off, I went for a walk around the park and the botanical gardens in Christchurch (must be getting old!)., then explored the museum in for a little bit.

After this I decided to go and find some scenery, so took a bus out to the Christchurch Gondola, which was a cable car, not a long boat normally found in Venice! Still, it had some pretty spectacular views over to the sea and the surrounding hills. Also an interesting exhibition about the original people settling the area. The bus driver on the way home made an impromptu tour guide, pointing out the local sewage works and other interesting stuff like that! Apparently the sewage works was also a nature reserve.

While walking around, I had noticed signs for the World Busker's festival, which was being held in Christchurch. This meant there were plenty of street theatre performers around Christchurch. Most of these I only gave a passing glance to, as they were the normal sort of stuff, but there was a contortionist, whose first act was to squeeze himself through a squash racquet!

Back at the hostel, I'd had to move rooms due to not asking to stay on early enough, so ended up sharing with a different crowd. 3 of the girls from the room had found out about a comedy night linked to the busking festival, so we went off to watch that to wrap up the night. Actually managed to get a decent night's sleep with no annoying snoring woman, which meant I was able to get up in time for the bus early next morning!

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Sydney & Getting to Christchurch

On arriving at Sydney airport (at 6:30am local time) I was still unsure what I would be doing for the day - according to the travel agent in England, I wouldn't be able to get out of the airport. Fortunately for me, she was wrong, and I was able to clear customs and spend the day wandering round Sydney. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't exactly what I was expecting. It was very overcast, with some drizzle. Which turned into rain occasionally.

Due to not having a huge amount of time, I didn't do much apart from walking round exploring, hiding every now and again under cover when I got fed up of being rained on. Eventually I headed back to the airport for the final leg of my first journey, where of course my flight was delayed a little! Upon arriving in Christchurch, I had no idea of how I was going to get to the hostel I had booked - the Lonely Planet suggested buses, which of course had finished running by that point. Perhaps this made me look nervous, for a customs officer decided I looked dodgy and asked me all sorts of questions about my stay! Eventually I managed to get through, and was greeted by Karl & Alice who had changed their plans a little and come to meet me. This made getting around a little easier. After going for a beer and some food, I was very tired and collapsed in my bed, in a dorm with a woman who said I had better not snore, then proceeded to snore loudly for the entire night!

The next day, Karl & Alice talked me into coming Whitewater Rafting - saying that the places offering it in Queenstown, where people normally do stuff like this, end up giving you very little water time, and not very difficult rapids. This place, Rangitata Rafts, had Grade 5 rapids (the hardest ones you can do without being more likely than not to flip the raft) and lasted quite a long time. The river we were rafting on was formed by two glaciers meeting, which meant it wasn't particularly toasty! It was a great day, and I didn't even fall out of the raft. I can't say the same for Karl, he got thrown out when we were messing about trying to get water to flow over the front of the raft for the cameras, after surviving all of the rapids without any problems! Some of our group however (Karl included!) need lessons on which is left and which is right! I would definitely recommend this trip to anyone going to New Zealand - it's had much better reports than the rafting around Queenstown.

UPDATE: Have got some of the photos now! The third one, I seemed to be the only person to hear the "wave to the camera" instruction. The final one is seconds before Karl and 2 others fell out!



Anyway, today I have an unexpected extra day in Christchurch, so I am having a lazy day before starting a backpacker tour tomorrow morning. I'll be heading to Kaikoura to do some whale watching, before heading to the North Island.

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

I've left!

I intended to post saying Goodbye yesterday, but ended up being fairly busy trying to get everything packed - perhaps I shouldn't have left everything until the last moment! Anyway, I've left and am now in Singapore airport after a lovely 12 hour flight :s And the best bit is that this is only halfway to my first destination, Christchurch.

Anyway, I will see most of you in 3 months time. During that period I will be posting here about what I've been up to, and possibly including some photographs should the facilities be available.

See you all later!

Tuesday, January 10, 2006

Travel Plans

So I finally finished my PhD (yay!). My next move is to go traveling for a while, as I've been wanting to do this for a while. I will be leaving the country on January 16th to go to New Zealand, Australia and Fiji for 3 months. I will be returning at the end of April.

As many people know, I'm not one for making very definite plans. This holiday is no exception - although I have booked flights between the countries I will be visiting, I haven't made too many plans beyond that. Hence, I cannot provide a complete itinery at the moment. For the time being, these are my flights.

Jan 16th: England to New Zealand
BA0017 Heathrow (T4) -Singapore 16/1 21:15 - 17/1 17:50
QF0320 Singapore (T1) -Sydney 17/1 20:05 - 18/1 06:35
QF0311 Sydney (T1) -Christchurch 18/1 17:10 - 18/1 22:10

Mar 1st: New Zealand to Australia
QF0310 Christchurch - Sydney 01/3 06:45 - 01/3 08:10

Mar 20th: Australia (Internal Flight)
QF0790 Sydney (T3) - Alice Springs 20/3 09:35 - 20/3 11:15

Mar 24th: Australia (Internal Flight)
QF1948 Alice Springs - Cairns 24/3 14:25 - 24/3 17:05

April 8th: Australia to Fiji
QF0709 Cairns - Brisbane 08/4 10:15 - 08/4 12:20
QF0397 Brisbane - Nadi 08/4 15:30 - 08/4 21:00

April 18th: Fiji to Los Angeles
QF3839 Nadi - Los Angeles 18/4 22:00 - 18/4 13:20

April 20th: Los Angeles to England
BA0268 LA (Tom Bradley) - London 20/4 21:20 - 21/4 15:25

That's it for now - I'll post some more when I've made firm plans.